A 1950s jersey weighed almost twice as much when wet as it did when dry. A 2026 jersey weighs around 150 grams, wicks sweat to the outside of the fabric, and is sometimes made from material derived from recycled plastic bottles. Between the two, there was not one invention but a series of trade-offs between comfort, durability, production cost, and on-screen appearance. Understanding this evolution also means understanding why two jerseys from the same club, in the same season, can cost anywhere from half as much to twice as much.
Cotton, a century of heavy jerseys
The first jerseys are made from the materials available at the time: thick cotton, sometimes wool, with buttoned collars and long sleeves. Natural fiber is comfortable when dry and breathes reasonably well, but it absorbs water instead of wicking it away. In the rain or after an hour of exertion, the jersey becomes saturated, grows heavier, clings to the skin, and loses its shape at the shoulders. In archive footage of finals played in downpours, this heaviness is visible to the naked eye.
Cotton also imposes limits on design. Patterns are sewn or embroidered, rarely printed, and colors fade in the wash. This is one reason jerseys from this period rely on simple, durable principles: solid colors, vertical stripes, horizontal bands, and an embroidered crest.
The arrival of polyester, the real turning point
Synthetic fabric initially takes hold for reasons of athletic performance: it absorbs almost no water, dries quickly, and retains its shape. But its most lasting effect is graphic. Polyester accepts printing, which cotton did not, opening the door to patterns, gradients, and large-format sponsor logos. The jersey stops being a sports garment and becomes a surface for expression.
The downside soon becomes apparent: the first polyester fabrics are poorly breathable and retain odors. It is the period’s accepted trade-off—a lighter jersey that reads better on television, but is less comfortable to wear for long periods than good cotton.
1990s knitwear, when the material becomes the design
To address the lack of breathability, sportswear manufacturers work on the structure of the fabric rather than its composition: open-knit fabrics, mesh panels under the arms and on the back, and textured weaves. Combined with deliberately loose fits, this approach gives the entire decade its visual identity. The material itself becomes a style element, to the point that some jerseys from this period are recognizable by touch as much as by appearance.
This is also one explanation for the current value of these models on the secondhand market. These jerseys have aged remarkably well because their thick knit withstands dozens of washes without losing its shape, whereas ultra-lightweight contemporary fabric shows wear more quickly.
Technical fabrics: the era of zones
Major sportswear manufacturers develop treated fibers to transport moisture from the skin to the surface of the fabric, where it evaporates. Each brand has its own commercial name, but the principle remains the same: polyester whose yarn cross-section and weave are designed for capillary action. The second major change is zoned knitting, which makes it possible to have dense areas in exposed locations and highly breathable sections under the arms and on the back within the same garment. The jersey becomes an assembly of different properties rather than a single fabric.
Recycled polyester: the shift underway
Most official jerseys now advertise a significant, sometimes total, proportion of recycled polyester, generally made from collected, shredded, and respun plastic bottles. Technically, the result is very similar to virgin polyester in terms of feel, moisture wicking, and durability, which explains how quickly the shift has taken place. The debate is less about performance than about the actual scope of the environmental argument, as global textile production continues to increase in volume.
For the wearer, the change is invisible in everyday use. The only practical difference lies in the increasing fineness of the mesh: the lighter the fabric, the more you need to avoid high temperatures and tumble dryers, regardless of the fiber's origin.
Player version versus supporter version: the real difference
This is where the material becomes a practical purchasing consideration. Two jerseys from the same club, from the same season, with the same design, can be made from fairly different fabrics. The price difference is not about the graphics; it is about the construction.
- Thicker, softer mesh, comfortable for everyday wear
- Roomier cut, more forgiving when it comes to sizing
- Crest and logos most often embroidered or heat-applied
- Good resistance to repeated washing
- Significantly lower price, the best-selling version in the stands
- Thinner and lighter fabric, with pronounced ventilation zones
- Close-fitting cut, designed for exertion rather than city wear
- Logos often heat-printed to reduce weight
- More sensitive to irons, tumble dryers, and snags
- Higher price, justified by the construction rather than the design
The player version is made to be played in for ninety minutes. The supporter version is made to be worn for five years.
The most useful summary before choosing between the twoThe choice therefore depends on actual use, not prestige. For weekly five-a-side games, the player version offers measurable benefits. For going to the stadium, going out in the city, and washing the jersey every week for years, the supporter version is objectively the better product. The fitted cut of the player version also affects the choice of size, a point explained in detail in our guide to finding the right jersey size.
How the material affects care
| Material | Washing | Drying | Ironing | Point to watch |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Old cotton | 30 degrees | Lay flat | Soft | Shoulder deformation |
| 1980s polyester | 30 degrees | Air-dry | Very soft | Embedded odors |
| 1990s mesh | 30 degrees | Air-dry | Avoid | Flocking has become brittle |
| Recent technical fabric | 30 degrees, inside out | Air-dry | Never directly | No fabric softener |
| Recycled polyester | 30 degrees, inside out | Air-dry | Never directly | Fine mesh, snags |
Training kits use the same technical fabrics as match jerseys, in constructions designed for repeated use. They are the best way to assess a material before investing in a player version.
View the training kitsFrequently asked questions
No, not under normal conditions of use. The recycled fiber used in sportswear is chemically very similar to virgin polyester, and abrasion and washing resistance tests produce comparable results. What actually weakens a modern jersey is the thinness of the knit, chosen to reduce weight, regardless of the fiber’s origin.
Because polyester is oleophilic: it retains the oils from the skin, where the bacteria responsible for odors settle. Low-temperature washing with too much detergent does not remove them and adds another deposit. The solution is to reduce the detergent dose, eliminate fabric softener, and soak the jersey in white vinegar for an hour before washing.
Originals from before the 1970s often are; those from the 1980s and 1990s almost never are: they are already polyester, simply thicker and more matte than today’s fabrics. Contemporary reissues, on the other hand, reproduce the period design using modern materials, sometimes a cotton-polyester blend to recreate the original drape without its drawbacks.
Only if you play in it. Its lighter construction and ventilation zones provide a real benefit during exertion, but it is more fragile, more fitted, and less tolerant of everyday care. For supporters, the supporter version offers better everyday comfort and a longer lifespan, at a lower price.
A material that tells the story of an era
The football jersey has followed exactly the same path as the rest of sportswear: from a comfortable natural fiber unsuited to physical exertion to a material designed function by function, zone by zone. Each step solved the previous problem while creating another, and today’s care requirements are the direct consequence of this race toward lightness.
That is also why a 1994 jersey and a 2026 jersey should not be worn, washed, or age in the same way. Knowing what they are made of remains the simplest way to keep them for a long time, regardless of the club printed on them.